Home inspectors cannot move items or personal belongings, so ensure access to:

- Attic (clear ladder access; unlock if needed)

- Crawl space (unlock hatch, clear area)

- Electrical panel (nothing blocking it)

- HVAC units (indoor & outdoor)

- Water heater(s)

- Main water shut-off & gas shut-off

- Garage (unlock; remove cars if possible)

If any utilities are off, the inspector can’t test major systems. Make sure:

- Water is on

- Gas is on

- Electricity is on

- Pilot lights are lit (water heater, furnace, gas fireplace)

If something can’t be tested, it becomes a “limitation” in the report—never ideal.

Saves discrepancies in the report:

- Replace burned-out light bulbs

- Install new HVAC filters

- Replace smoke detector batteries

- Ensure carbon monoxide detectors are present where required

- Remove debris from exterior gutters if easy to reach

- Ensure toilets flush properly

- Make sure all doors & windows open and close

Nothing fancy—just the basics.

Clean enough so the inspector can move freely. You don’t need to deep-clean or stage like a showing. Just:

- Remove clutter

- Don’t block walls, outlets, or floor areas

- Make sure pets are out of the way

Inspectors open gates, doors, attics, and crawl spaces. Do one of these:

- Remove pets from the home

- Crate them

- Set clear warnings (“Cat inside—don’t let out!”)

Leave out anything needed to inspect:

- Garage door remotes

- Shed keys

- Gate keys/combo

These minor fixes (while not required) reduce the number of report “descrepancies”:

- Loose doorknobs

- Dripping faucets

- Missing outlet covers

- Wobbly toilets

- Dead smoke/CO alarms

- Overgrown vegetation touching the siding

Small stuff adds up in negotiation.

A home inspection isn’t a “pass or fail”—it’s documentation of condition.

Best mindset: “Let them see everything so there are no surprises later…”

Contact a “Certified Master Inspector” now to schedule an Inspection